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Christmas is one of my favorite times of year wherever I am, but Christmas in Naples is extra special. The city lights up with decorations, there are tons of festive treats to enjoy and there is a really fun atmosphere. It wouldn’t be most people’s first thought when it comes to where to spend the Christmas holidays, but trust me, it’s a fantastic place to visit.
We love the holidays in Naples – the city really embraces the spirit of Christmas, lasting from early December through to early January
Celebrating the Christmas Season in Naples
The Christmas period in Naples lasts quite a while. Officially it starts on December 8, which is a public holiday in Italy that commemorates the Immacolata (the Immaculate Conception). This is the date that you will find Christmas trees and decorations go up everywhere and people in Naples start getting serious about their festive plans.
The holidays go all the way to January 6, which is the Epiphany, the day that the Magi visited Jesus, so there is plenty of time to celebrate. Don’t forget that one of the three Miracle of the Blood events where the sacred blood of San Gennaro is brought out takes places on December 16 so there is a lot going on!
Beyond Naples you’ll find the same love for Christmas throughout the region of Campania
If you’re thinking about spending some time over the Christmas period in Naples, to help you have a fantastic festive trip, in this guide I’ll be talking about:
Neapolitan Festive Traditions
Christmas in Naples is all about family. Yes, people buy small gifts for each other but the main focus of the holidays is getting to spend uninterrupted time with your family. Christmas Eve is actually the more important day compared to Christmas Day, but both are filled with food and fun.
One of the most common games that Neapolitans play is tombola. Popular since the 18th century, the concept is simple; every player has a card with a selection of numbers on it and numbers are drawn that you mark off on your card. Similar to bingo, the first player to complete one of the pre-set combinations wins.
What makes tombola so popular with Neapolitans is that each of the numbers have funny or dirty references attached to them, and when playing it is fun for people to tell stories or jokes related to those references when each number is called.
There aren’t many things more Neapolitan than playing tombola at Christmas
On Christmas Eve, many people go to Midnight Mass. Then they all get up the following morning to resume the festivities and the eating – I have never been so full in my life as at the end of Christmas Day here!
Neapolitan Presepe
One of my favorite Neapolitan traditions is the presepe, or nativity scenes.
The concept of setting up a nativity scene at Christmas is not new or from Naples (Saint Francis created the first one in 1223) but Neapolitans have made it their own. Each family has their own nativity scene, which features not just the classic scenes of Mary, Joseph and the baby Jesus, but so much more.
A full cast of characters is usually present, including anachronistic figures of Neapolitan pizza makers, fishmongers, bakers, monks, footballer players and many more. Some people favour traditional stable scenes whereas others have backdrops of cities, ancient ruins, palaces and outdoor scenes.
Via San Gregorio Armeno is the place to go for all things presepe in Naples
On Via San Gregorio Armeno street, nicknamed ‘Christmas Alley’, you can find a series of workshops and stores selling everything from tiny fruit and vegetable pieces for market stalls to large battery powered fountains to enhance your presepe. I’ve always loved the tradition of purchasing a new figure or two each year to add to a family’s scene, which results in delightfully eclectic combinations!
In Naples and Campania there are also some places where you can see some huge, ornate nativity scenes. In the Royal Palace of Caserta there are some beautiful ones from the late 1700’s on display, and in many of Naples’ churches there are stunning scenes set up in December.
One of my favorites was in a small room off the Santa Chiara cloister that I saw for the first time last year. Here they had set up large figures of Mary and Joseph alongside some animals, it was simple by Neapolitan standards but a beautifully set scene.
I find the presepe scenes at Santa Chiara particularly touching
Christmas Masses in Naples
If you would like to attend a mass for Christmas, these are held in almost every major church in the city. Times and specific details are difficult to find online or in advance however, so I recommend going to Naples Duomo if you would like to attend a service. Their times are confirmed well in advance, and as Naples’ cathedral it is a lovely place to be in for Christmas.
Their principal services are as follows:
- Midnight Mass at 12AM on December 24 – expect a large attendance so arrive with some time to spare.
- Dawn Mass on December 25 at 9.30AM
- Holy Mass at 11AM
Where to See Christmas Lights and Decorations in Naples
You won’t struggle to find Christmas decorations and lights in Naples, but there are some places that are better than others.
For the decorations, the Spanish Quarter, Via dei Tribunali and Spaccanapoli are the best areas to go. There are lights everywhere, along the streets as well as all over store fronts and restaurants. Via San Gregorio Armeno intersects with these streets so there is always a lot of Christmas decor here through the holidays. There are also festive themed displays, gifts and so much more – this is the perfect place to get into the Christmas spirit.
You’ll see Christmas decorations everywhere in Naples, and I mean everywhere – all the streets are filled throughout the holiday period with lights
Unlike other Italian cities like Rome and Florence, Naples does not consistently have a huge Christmas tree. In prior years there has sometimes been one in Piazza del Plebiscito, as well as Piazza Municipio (near the ferry port) and in the various smaller piazzas around the city.
Even if they aren’t the biggest, we love Naples’ Christmas trees
Christmas Shopping in Naples
Naples (and Campania) is an excellent shopping destination year-round, but if you’re visiting Naples around Christmas time you’ve got even more options.
Christmas Markets
In the lead up to Christmas, lots of smaller markets start popping up all over the city. Naples’ Christmas markets are not the huge set ups you find in northern Europe (being a much more recent addition to holiday traditions here) but this does not mean they aren’t fun to browse!
You’ll find market stalls filled with everything and anything Christmas-related you can think of. Most are in the area close to the San Gregorio Armeno street, particularly Piazza San Gaetano, as well Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, Piazza Dante and at points along via Toledo.
Take some time to peruse the stalls that pop-up throughout Naples during the Christmas period – we have found some great gifts for friends and family on sale
Not all stalls are set up every day during the Christmas period so my advice is that if you see something you like, buy it. If you plan to come back another time there is absolutely no guarantee the stall will be there again during your visit to Naples!
Other Shopping Options
As well as the market stalls around Naples, you have lots of other shopping options.
Via Toledo is filled with stores, mostly European high-street brands but as everything is in one place it’s a good place to browse. At weekends this area is packed with locals however so if you want a more enjoyable Christmas gift shopping experience, go during the week!
Naples’ out-of-town designer outlet at Caserta (known as ‘La Reggia’) is another great location for Christmas shopping
In the Centro Storico you’ll find all sorts of boutiques and small stores, some of which are selling mass-produced, cheap souvenirs admittedly, but others have unique and special items. I have found some lovely jewellery, ceramics and foodie presents here – the chocolates from Gay Odin by the entrance to the Santa Chiara complex are to die for.
Another fun shopping area is the central neighborhood on the Vomero hill. Take one of the funiculars up the hill from the Spanish Quarter and explore the gridded streets filled with all sorts of stores, and often markets stalls too at the weekends.
Finally, if you’re after something really special to gift someone, the higher end and designer stores are mostly in the Chiaia neighbourhood, including Prada, Gucci and Louis Vuitton.
Neapolitan Festive Food
It wouldn’t be a holiday in Naples without all the food and drink you can imagine. Neapolitans do not do anything on a small scale when it comes to celebrations and Christmas is one of the biggest events of the year.
What to Expect From A Neapolitan Christmas Meal
On Christmas Eve, the menu is all about fish. Traditionally, on specific holy days Christians would not eat meat as a type of fast, so the evening of December 24 was marked by eating fish instead before going to mass. The concept of fasting isn’t generally followed anymore, but the tradition of eating fish has been continued.
The American idea of the ‘Feast of the Seven Fishes’ has its roots in the southern Italian tradition of eating fish, and while Neapolitans do not refer to it as this, there are certainly a lot of fish dishes to enjoy! Popular dishes include spaghetti vongole and grilled or baked whole fishes, accompanied by all sorts of vegetables and soups.
A lot of people might associate clam pasta with the summer, but it is a traditional Christmas dish in this part of Italy also
On Christmas Day, the focus changes to meat. If you visit Naples around the Christmas holidays you will find a wide selection of meat dishes on offer, but pace yourself! Christmas dinner is a long event, starting with all types of antipasti; cured meats, cheeses, bruschetta, fried fish and more. The traditional minestra maritata soup usually gets served before a big helping of pasta; maybe a lasagne or timballo.
You will still have the meat course itself to come, roasted or stewed, served with more vegetables and the tangy insalata di rinforzo, a type of pickle that is a welcome contrast to the richer elements of the meal!
Santo Stefano, Saint Stephen’s Day is celebrated on December 26 (Boxing Day in the UK). For me this is possibly the best part of the holidays – leftovers! There is always far too much food made the preceding two days so you can graze on all the tasty food all day without having to cook again.
Neapolitan Christmas Treats
From early December the bakeries in Naples start adding the local holiday biscuits and cakes to their displays. The Italian pandoro and panettone are popular in Naples too but the local sweet treats are a must-have for Christmas in Naples.
These are so good that Neapolitans don’t wait for the main Christmas celebration to enjoy them – here are some of my favorites:
- Mustaccioli: These diamond-shaped cookies are made with cocoa and nuts, baked then covered in dark chocolate. They are more decadent than some of the other choices but so good with a strong Neapolitan coffee.
- Roccocò: Another Neapolitan cookie, these look sort of like a baked doughnut. They come in a crispy and soft version, and are flavored with Neapolitan Pisto, a spice mix similar to pumpkin pie spice.
- Struffoli: These little crispy fried dough balls are stuck together with honey or sugar syrup then decorated with colorful sprinkles. I love these so much, they are incredibly moreish and somehow never feel too heavy even when you’ve eaten a huge pile of them!
Struffoli are one of my favorite festive treats
What to Expect During a Visit to Naples at Christmas
If you’re planning on spending Christmas in Naples, there are a few things to be aware of.
Firstly, most museums, sites and shops will be closed on December 24, 25 and 26. Restaurants that are open generally will be serving either lunch or dinner only, and often this is with a set menu rather than a la carte. Always check opening days and hours in advance with the specific places you want to go to avoid being disappointed!
Public transport does not stop altogether but services are reduced and more infrequent, and taxi availability is also reduced.
Therefore, I highly recommend that you choose accommodation in the historical center or around the Spanish Quarter for your trip. This means that you can walk everywhere without worrying about whether the buses or metro will be running, plus you’ll be right in the heart of the festivities.
I also recommend that you plan ahead when it comes to your festive meals. Book a table at one of the traditional Neapolitan restaurants or plan to buy groceries in the days before if you will be staying in self-catering accommodation. The restaurants that are open over Christmas get booked up fast so you may struggle to find somewhere decent if you don’t book in advance.
Celebrating Christmas in Naples is a lot of fun, but does require a little more planning to ensure you don’t miss out.
Never assume that you’ll be able to walk in to a restaurant in Naples without reserving ahead; this is a busy time of year with visitors and locals alike
Exploring Campania at Christmas
Christmas in Naples isn’t just about spending time in the city itself. When we visit Naples around the Christmas holidays, we always make a point of getting out and exploring the wider Campania area.
Here are my favorite places to visit outside of Naples this time of year:
The Royal Palace of Caserta
The huge palace and gardens at Caserta are a top destination for me year-round. Not only are the former royal apartments lavishly decorated (and have been used as film locations for top-tier movies like Star Wars and Conclave), the gardens are lovely too.
At Christmas the palace holds special events, extended opening hours, workshops and more for an extra special visit. This is where some of the most incredible presepe are kept too, so you can see the Royal nativity scenes up close.
The scale and detail of the Caserta palace presepe has to be seen in person to be truly appreciated
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Pompeii and Herculaneum
Okay so this isn’t a festive excursion as such, but the time around the holidays is one of my absolute favorite times of year to visit Pompeii and Herculaneum – if it’s a dry day.
Crowd numbers are much lower than at any other point and there is something wonderful about exploring these archaeological sites without any other people around. Plus, with the weather being cooler, you don’t have to worry about it being too hot.
Advance booking is less important too so if you’re in Naples and aren’t sure what your plans are, grab a last minute ticket or book a spot on a tour, jump on the train (also much quieter) and you’ll be there in no time. If you want a really special experience however, you can arrange a private tour and get to see the archaeological park in a very special way.
Sorrento
Warren and I’s other top pick for a day trip during the festive season is the town of Sorrento. Normally seen as a summer destination like the nearby Amalfi Coast, Sorrento is also a lot of fun at Christmas. Yes, a lot of the big hotels and some restaurants close for the winter, but Sorrento itself still goes all out for the holidays.
Sorrento is serious about its Christmas lights
The Christmas lights and decorations really have the wow-factor, so we always make a point to get the train for the day. This is a really relaxing trip, as all you have to do is wander around the shops, have a long leisurely lunch, then as it gets dark enjoy aperitivo under the twinkly lights before returning to Naples. What could be better?
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To sum up…
Christmas in Naples is one of the most fun times of year in the city, and there are lots of ways you can join in the celebrations. Remember to book ahead for restaurants if you want to eat a traditional Neapolitan meal over the holidays, and don’t miss out on seeing some of the presepe arrangements.
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