From the outside Naples Cathedral looks like a regular church. This is because of the other buildings that surround it and the fact that there is no huge piazza in front of it as with St Peter’s Basilica in Rome or the Duomo in Florence.

However, don’t let this facade fool you into thinking the cathedral of Naples is not worth visiting!

Not only are there beautiful artworks and wonderful architectural styles to see in the cathedral, you can also get a real sense of the layers of Naples’ history here. Plus, the cathedral is the home of the principal patron saint, San Gennaro, and is where the special Miracle of the Blood ceremony takes place.

There is so much to explore here so let’s get started – in this guide I’ll be talking about:

• The history of the Duomo di Napoli
• What to see inside Naples Cathedral
• The Basilica of Santa Restituta
• The Royal Chapel of the Treasure of San Gennaro
• Practical visit information

Early Christianity in Naples

There was a significant Christian community in Naples by the 2nd century, evidenced by the catacombs built into the Capodimonte hill dating back this far. The story of San Gennaro, Naples’ patron saint who died in 305 CE and his position as bishop also shows that there was an established group of worshippers here.

After Christianity was legalized by the Roman empire in 313 CE and persecutions ended, the Christians in Naples did not wait long to formalize their new status.

In an example of the way Naples has always created new structures, on top of a ruined temple to Apollo, the Basilica of Santa Restituta was built in the 330’s. This was the first basilica ever built in Naples, dedicated to Saint Restituta who was martyred in the same persecutions that San Gennaro was caught in.

This was Naples’ principal church for centuries. At the end of the 5th century the Basilica Stefania was built next door and various renovations were done but the basilica remained largely unchanged.

A New Cathedral for Naples

In the 13th century Naples had fallen under the control of the kings of Anjou in France. Naples was made the capital of the new Kingdom of Naples (which included much of southern Italy and Sicily) and the new French kings were determined to see the city look its best.

King Charles II of Anjou ordered that a new cathedral be built. The original basilica at this time looked decidedly old fashioned and so he decided that this would be essentially replaced with the new building.

The Basilica Stefania was completely destroyed but parts of the Basilica di Santa Restituta was left in place and incorporated into the new Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, which was completed in 1313.

Cattedrale di San Gennaro

The story of Naples Cathedral did not end in the 1300’s! In 1497 Cardinal Oliviero arranged for the bones of San Gennaro (Saint Januarius) to be returned to Naples, having been hidden in a monastic complex for hundreds of years.

This was a huge deal for the city and its people, and so to sufficiently honor the patron saint, the cardinal ordered the construction of a chapel in the cathedral crypt, under the altar. This has been the home of San Gennaro’s remains ever since, and is the reason why some Italians refer to Naples Cathedral as ‘Cattedrale di San Gennaro‘ – the cathedral of San Gennaro.

Not long after this point, the Royal Chapel of the Treasure of San Gennaro was built, housing the ampoules of blood that are brought out three times a year for the blood miracle ceremony.

Naples Cathedral today

The cathedral has gone through various restorations and rebuilds over the years. These were partly necessary repairs following earthquake damage but also in response to changing fashions and styles.

Via Duomo was widened and improved in the 1860’s giving the present cathedral more space in front, and the façade (which is in a neo-Gothic style unlike anything inside) was only completed in 1905. Sadly Allied bombing air raids during World War II damaged the structure once again, with further restoration works completed in the 1960’s and 70’s.

However it was during these works that the ancient Roman and Greek layers, as well some early Medieval structures beneath the cathedral were exposed. So, today we can see the full story of this remarkable building and the layers of history – which is one of my favorite things about Naples!

On those walls you will see a series of paintings which show the Apostles, Doctors of the Church and also the various patron saints of Naples (of which there are over 50!). Lower down, inbetween the arches, the first sixteen bishops of Naples are also depicted – although these were added in the 17th and 18th centuries so I’m not sure how accurate they are!

Look out for the bits of ancient Roman columns that are in each of the sixteen pillars as you walk up to the altar, another nod to the layers of Naples’ history.

On the high altar you will see the huge sculpture of the Assumption (the actual dedication for the cathedral is still to Santa Maria Assunta) which was inspired by Bernini’s work in St Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

From here you can go down to the Succorpo chapel, which still houses relics of San Gennaro along with a statue of the cardinal who returned them to Naples.

There is much more to see in the cathedral – pick up an information leaflet at the entrance for lots more details about what is on display or join a tour where the guide can share their knowledge.

What to see inside the basilica

Today you access Santa Restituta from the left aisle of the Duomo di Napoli, and you can see most of it for free.

While some Baroque and Renaissance additions make it seem more modern, look out for the parts that are much older. The columns that support the arches are ancient, and there are multiple Roman sarcophagi that have been reused as tombs.

You will also see a number of tombstones set into the floor which date to the 15th century, fragments of early Medieval frescoes (very unusual to see still intact), and my personal favorite, a Byzantine-style mosaic in one of the side chapels. This mosaic, known as Madonna enthroned with Child between the saints Gennaro and Restituta is just breathtakingly beautiful. It is 700 years old and is still in excellent condition, which never fails to make me stop and stare!

You can also go down into the old crypt, which now allows you to see the ancient ruins underneath the basilica. There is part of an ancient Greek wall that was part of the temple of Apollo that stood here, part of an ancient Roman house and of an ancient aqueduct.

The ruins aren’t extensive, and other Naples underground offer a deeper insight into the layers of Naples’ history, but I think they’re interesting to see. You do have to pay a small fee (cash only) and they aren’t always open however.

The Neapolitan people were desperate for help, and on January 13 1527 they pledged to build him an unrivalled chapel if he would intercede on their behalf and stop the many problems affecting the city. This was no off-the-cuff remark, the people’s representatives swore their pledge in front of a notary and the relics of San Gennaro on the altar of the cathedral, and signed an official document.

The pledge seemed to work and the thankful people immediately began work on the new chapel, expanding and improving an existing chapel in the Duomo.

This was paid for entirely by Neapolitans, with the city representatives forming a committee to manage the process called the Deputation. This still exists today and oversees the management of the chapel, as unusually the chapel is still owned by the people of Naples, not the church.

What to see inside the chapel

The chapel is accessed from the right aisle of Naples Cathedral but there is a small fee to enter it. This can be combined with the next door museum which I highly recommend doing!

Once inside the chapel you will see a huge number of silver busts and sculptures. These represent all the patron saints of Naples, brought together in one place together with the huge reliquary bust of Saint Januarius near the altar.

There are also beautiful frescoes depicting scenes from the life of San Gennaro and a stunning view of Paradise in the dome above. Outside of the times when the ampoules containing the saint’s blood are on display for the Miracle of the Blood, they are securely stored in two niches behind the altar, hidden by silver doors.

The Treasure of San Gennaro Museum

The Treasure of San Gennaro is to the right of the Duomo di Napoli and connected directly to the chapel. The small museum is home to various sacred vestments and other objects are connected to San Gennaro, and for me is a wonderful way to finish your visit to Naples cathedral.

Inside you’ll find treasures like the necklace and mitre of San Gennaro, as well as other important pieces from the history of the chapel. You can even see the actual document signed in 1527!

Tickets are required, with entrance time slots every 30 minutes, and there is a good audio guide in multiple languages included in the entry ticket cost.

The cathedral is open from 8:30AM-7:30PM every day, staying open even when a Mass is being held.

Masses are held at 9AM and 6:30PM Monday-Saturday and on Sundays (and holidays) at 9AM, 11AM, 12:30PM and 6:30PM. If you visit during a Mass please be extra careful not to disrupt the service. You also will not be able to approach the main altar during this time, so I would suggest timing your visit for another part of the day.