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Ischia

Discover our Top Tips for Visiting the Neapolitan Island of Ischia

By Warren GeorgeOctober 26th, 2024No Comments

Just off the coast of Naples, the island of Ischia (also known as the ‘Green Island’) is a small slice of heaven that offers something for everyone who visits. This Italian island has it all; history, nature, wellness, a unique cuisine, shopping and much more!

view of ischia from aragonese castle
Did we mention the views?!

Why you should include Ischia in your Naples itinerary

You’ve no doubt heard of Capri, but have you heard of Ischia?

If you have, you’re in a minority as many visitors to Campania have often head to Ischia’s more famous Bay of Naples neighbor. Like Capri, Ischia offers something for everyone with its outstanding natural charm, delicious food and drink, beautiful beaches, fascinating history and artisan local produce.

colorful pebble and tile sign built into a wall saying 'i love ischia'
There is something for everyone to love on the island of Ischia

You can visit Ischia as either a day trip from Naples (or from Sorrento, the Amalfi Coast, or anywhere else in Campania), but also easily spend a full vacation here during which time you’ll experience everything this island has to offer.

In this guide we’ll be talking about:

Where is Ischia?

Ischia is an island situated about 30 kilometers (19 miles) southwest of Naples in the Gulf of Naples in southern Italy.

Nearby you’ll find Procida, the smallest of the main Neapolitan islands, which is linked heavily with Ischia through a shared heritage and modern culture.

view of procida from ischia with mount vesuvius in the distance
Procida and the mainland, including Mount Vesuvius, can be clearly seen from Ischia

A brief history of Ischia

The earliest evidence of human habitation on Ischia goes back to the Bronze Age where people lived in simple settlements on the island, subsisting on the rich terrain and abundant Tyrrhenian Sea.

Later, the ancient Greeks were drawn to Ischia who colonized the island, drawn by its abundant resources and natural hot springs.

medieval weapons and shields on display in aragonese castle
If you’re interested in learning more about Ischia’s history, be sure to visit the Aragonese Castle where you’ll find exhibits with a range of fascinating artefacts

The Greeks were quickly followed by the Romans who ruled the island (on and off) for hundreds of years until other peoples including the Lombards and Normans eventually settled here.

From the 15th to 18th centuries, this volcanic island was governed by the Aragonese and Spanish kingdoms, with the local population continuing to thrive on agriculture and fishing.

In the 19th century Ischia, along with the rest of Campania, became part of the newly unified Italian Kingdom.

In modern times, the focus of this Italian island has shifted towards tourism where people from all around the world come here for the island’s natural charm and easy living.

Not many people realise that Ischia is a volcanic island, with the highest point of the island – Monte Epomeo – having been created by thousands of years of volcanic activity.

The last significant eruption was in 1302 and, along with Mount Vesuvius and the nearby Campi Flegri area, it’s one of the most monitored volcanic areas in the world.

All the reasons why you should visit Ischia

There’s no shortage of reasons to come to Ischia – here are our top reasons to consider a day trip from Naples or a longer stay:

  • This island is simply stunning. Ischia’s natural beauty is breathtaking and will leave you asking yourself why you haven’t visited sooner! From pristine beaches to a forested interior, for a relatively small island you’ll find an incredible range of natural scenery here.
  • While busy during peak season, Ischia is not anywhere near as busy as Capri so makes a great alternative if you’re intent on visiting one of the Neapolitan islands to live La Dolce Vita, The Sweet Life.
ischia town church with yellow and white facade
Simply walking around Ischia is a pleasure, where you can see a mixture of cultures and styles that give this island its unique feeling
  • Ischia has been famous since ancient times for its thermal springs and natural pools, and is considered one of the best places in Italy to enjoy hot spas in the same way as ancient people did.
  • Due to its desirable and strategic location on the edge of the Bay of Naples, Ischia Italy has attracted foreign powers and interesting characters throughout its history. You’ll find a range of fascinating attractions here to visit, with two of our favorites being the Aragonese Castle and La Mortella Botanical Gardens – more about these below!

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The best time to visit

Ischia can be visited at any point of the year, but be sure to consider the following when planning your trip:

  • During the late fall and through early spring almost all of the spa resorts close to give their teams a rest after the busy summer months. Public beaches and thermal pools can still be visited, but amenities will be limited if available at all.
  • In July and August, the whole island fills up with visitors, most of which are from the local area and around Italy who are coming to enjoy their summer holidays.
  • The ferries between Naples (and other parts of Campania) and Ischia are subject to the weather, and as such may be suspended or restricted during the winter months when the seas are rougher.
scooter parked on ischia waterfront
We visit Ischia all year around and never tire of it – the atmosphere is always relaxed and offers a great break from the occasionally hectic energy of the mainland

Ultimately, the best time to visit depends on your reasons for visiting:

  • if you’re coming for a relaxing break to enjoy the thermal spa resorts or beaches, come in May/June or September.
  • if you’re coming for sightseeing, come in March/April or October/November
  • if you’re coming to see and do everything, early June or late September would be the sweet spot!

This all said, my first ever trip to Ischia was in February and it felt like I had the island to myself! I was the only person in my B&B, was able to jog along the beaches without dodging sunbeds and explore the Aragonese Castle without crowds or tour groups getting in the way.

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What to see and do on Ischia

As mentioned previously, there is no shortage of things to do on Ischia. There is something for everyone here so let’s start exploring:

Castello Aragonese (Aragonese Castle)

What is possibly Ischia’s most iconic landmark, the Aragonese castle is an absolute must-see site for anyone interested in history or in search of breathtaking views.

Situated on the south-eastern side of the island and close to the picturesque old town, the history of this imposing fortification stretches back to the 5th century BCE where historical records document the first village here, founded by ancient Greeks.

ischia ponte bridge with aragonese castle behind
If you don’t have enough time during your visit to the island to visit the castle properly, at least be sure to walk down to Ischia Ponte to get a great view of the Castello Aragonese

This original village was later expanded by the Romans, but following a volcanic eruption in 150 CE, the landscape was altered and the small island that the castle sits on today was separated from Ischia.

The separation from Ischia enhanced the castle island’s strategic value, which has been proven repeatedly over history, with numerous incursions by foreign powers being repelled by its inhabitants.

The modern name for the castle derives from the controllers of this area during the Renaissance period, the kingdom of Aragon in Spain.

medieval arches in aragonese castle
I love the evocative ruins of the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption at the top of the castle with views out across the island

Today the castle is more than just a tourist attraction – you’ll find art spaces, a hotel and high-end restaurant here as well as the museum and bistro dedicated to visitors.

You can visit much of the castle’s historic buildings, with my personal favorite section being the evocative ruins of the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption.

The castle is open all year round but be aware that some facilities such as the bistro may be limited during the quieter winter months.

Visiting the castle involves a lot of walking (along the original ramparts and inner galleries) but there is also an elevator for anyone with mobility challenges that will take you from the entrance up to the main level where you’ll find the principle sites to visit, the bistro and art gallery spaces.

For full information on tickets and opening hours, refer to the official website here.

La Mortella Gardens

A relatively recent addition to Ischia’s beauty, the Giardini la Mortella are a must-visit location on the island.

In the 1950’s English composer William Walton and his new wife, Susana Walton, bought land on the north west coast of the island. The stunning sea views, dramatic cliffs and lush greenery captivated the couple, inspiring them to build a home and surround it with incredible gardens.

la mortella gardens greenery, bench and small fountain
The different areas of the garden are beautiful and green, filled with a huge variety of plants

The development of the gardens began in 1956, designed to incorporate the natural features of the landscape while also reflecting the Walton’s unique vision.

Susana Walton was brought up in Argentina and had traveled extensively, so the gardens feature many exotic plants and materials from all over the world to remind her of these adventures.

The garden was the couple’s happy place for many years, constantly being added to and improved. When Sir William Walton passed away in 1983, Susana decided to open the gardens to the public a few years later, but continued to work on them until she also passed away in 2010.

Now run by a foundation Susana Walton set up, the gardens cover 2 hectares of land. From shady tree-lined paths interspersed with fountains you can go up the hill and discover each new section. There is also a small museum dedicated to the composer and a lovely cafe.

la mortella gardens cafe table and chairs
The cafe in the gardens serves light lunches, excellent coffee and aperitivo surrounded by the greenery

You will need to take a bus (or drive) to the gardens unless you’re on a tour that includes transport, but the effort is well worth it. The two bus lines (CS and CD) that loop around most of the island both stop on the nearby main road, and from there it is a short walk down a signposted road to the main garden entrance.

See more details, along with opening days and times, on the official website here.

Curious to know more, or want to share your own recommendation? Leave a comment!

Mount Epomeo

Epomeo is the highest mountain on the island of Ischia, rising 2,589 feet above sea level and was created over thousands of years of volcanic activity.

If you’re interested in visiting this landmark, there are several hiking trails you can take.

The simplest way to visit Mount Epomeo is to make your way to Fontana via bus or taxi from Ischia Porto or wherever you are staying.

From here, use a map or Google Maps to track your route to Mount Epomeo – you’ll see signs in the village (in Italian, showing Monte Epomeo) that will help point the way.

The journey to the top will take about an hour and while it’s a relatively short hike, some parts are steep meaning you should wear adequate footwear and take your time.

Thermal Spas and Wellness

Ischia is renowned throughout Italy for its thermal spas, naturally occurring thanks to the island’s volcanic geography.

Throughout the entire island you’ll find hotels and resorts that offer direct access to these thermal waters and offer spa treatments. Two of the most famous and accessible thermal baths are:

Both of these thermal parks offer wellness packages for longer stays, as well as daily and half day passes if you are visiting Ischia for just a day trip.

Beyond the resorts, there are also publicly accessible thermal pools and springs around the island. Our favorite is Baia di Sorgeto, where the naturally-heated water meets the cool sea, creating a unique bathing experience.

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Beaches and Bays

If you’re more of a beach person, you are spoiled for choice on Ischia as you’ll find some of Campania’s best sandy stretches here.

Our absolute favorite spot is the bay of Citara, with long, fine sand beaches that get the sun all day. There are plenty of beach clubs to choose from here, but for the ultimate relaxing day out, head for the Giardini di Poseidon. The thermal baths complex is also connected to one of the popular beaches so you can wander between the hot springs and soft sand – bliss!

ischia port beach with beds and umbrellas
Unlike the beaches in Naples itself, the beaches in Ischia are set along long stretches of sand and offer plenty of space for visitors

Another great beach is the Spiaggia dei Pescatori, on the coast between Ischia port and the Castello Aragonese. This is a more laid back and relaxed beach compared to those at Citara, and as a fishing village there are some great restaurants to enjoy the local cuisine.

Discover more of our beach recommendations on our dedicated page here!

Check out our list of must-have things for a perfect beach day in Italy:

Day trips and excursions

If you’re spending an extended amount of time on Ischia and are keen to explore the wider area, why not consider a day trip off the island? Our top recommendations which can all be reached easily by direct ferries from Ischia are:

Procida

Procida is Ischia’s little sibling, located just a few kilometers away in the direction of Naples. The two islands have a heavily interconnected history, and are bound today by a shared culture.

Getting to Procida from Ischia is very easy; there are regular ferries to and from both islands all year round. Depending on where you are staying in Ischia, check which departure port makes the most sense for you.

procida street on harborfront
Taking time to visit Procida from Ischia is super easy with the regular ferries that run all day

On arrival in Procida you’ll find yourself at the Marina Port. From here you have several options on how to spend your time. One of our favorite things to do here is to eat along Via Roma and watch the fishing boats return with their daily catch.

There is a lot more to do however on Procida, far more than a lot of people realise. Opt for a beach day, explore historical sites or take a boat trip to soak in the scenery. For full information, check out our dedicated Procida guide here.

Naples

If you didn’t visit Naples on your way to Ischia, visiting Naples for (at least) a day is a must. Use the regular ferries to get to and from Naples.

In Naples itself you are spoiled for choice, and for a first-time visitor, this can be overwhelming. We would recommend using our detailed itineraries to make the most of your time in Napoli:

piazza del plebiscito basilica
Many of Naples’ main sites are a short walk from the city port, making a day trip from Ischia super easy

Sorrento

Another great day trip option from Ischia is Sorrento, on the opposite side of the Bay of Naples.

While the ferries don’t run as regularly between the two towns, they are frequent enough to enable you to visit comfortably in a single day.

You can spend your day in Sorrento shopping for local produce (our go-to place for ceramics), eating and drinking Sorrentine specialities (think Limoncello), visiting historical sites, or everything!

We love Sorrento so much that we return at least once a year for a full week, and it’s never enough time to see and do everything – find out more here.

sorrento cathedral bell tower
You won’t regret a trip to Sorrento – our favorite place in Campania!

How to get to Ischia

The ferries from Naples for Ischia depart from the Beverello pier (Molo Beverello) in Naples’ main port. This is the same port that you would go to if you are taking a ferry or the hydrofoils to Sorrento, Capri or the Amalfi Coast.

naples ferry port drop off point with castel nuovo in the background
Find Molo Beverello near the historic area of Naples – it is just a short walk from Castel Nuovo seen here in the background

To get to the port of Naples, either walk from your hotel/apartment following Google Maps, or use metro line 1, arriving at the Municipio metro stop. From here the ferry piers are a 5-10 minute short walk.

If you are arriving via Naples Capodichino airport, take the Alibus bus from the airport which will take you directly to the port (via Napoli Centrale train station). Of course, you can always take a taxi direct from the airport to the port!

If you haven’t booked your ferry tickets in advance, you’ll find the ticket desks near the pier with big signs showing the different ferry timetables. There are also various small bars and cafes offering simple refreshments.

naples molo beverello ferry port ticket desks
You’ll find the ticket desks and kiosks for all major ferry operators in one place in Molo Beverello, but be warned, these can get very busy during high season – this photo was taken in early March

There are a number of ferry companies, so choose the one that suits your plans best for your ferry from Naples. While the Ischia ferry routes runs all year round, the exact ferry schedules vary depending on the time of year and the weather (particularly during the winter) so it’s important to plan ahead as much as possible.

Once you have your ticket, use the information boards to find the pier that your ferry will be departing from. If you are unsure, ask the staff.

You can also get to Ischia island directly from other locations in the Gulf of Naples in Campania including Procida and Sorrento – use our recommended ferry partner to search for different options here.

How to get around the island

Ischia is bigger than it looks and as such there are plenty of options for getting around:

On foot

Ischia town, where most ferries dock, is small enough that you can comfortably walk from one end of the town to the other in around 30 minutes.

The town’s main beaches, as well as the Castello Aragonese, can be easily reached on foot from the port, with the main thoroughfare taking you past the array of shops and restaurants available.

By bus

There is a reliable bus service running across the entire island, allowing you to easily travel between the main towns and attractions.

buses waiting at ischia main bus station
If you are arriving at the main port, or staying in this area, the bus station can be found close to the ferry piers

The two main lines are CS and CD. CS runs clockwise from Ischia port, down to the Maronti beach and then up to Citara, Forio and back to the port. CD runs the opposite way, so even if you get on the wrong one, you’ll eventually end up where you need to go!

There are also many other specific routes serving much of Ischia, with all details of these on the EAV website. The schedule is updated every few months so if you haven’t visited Ischia for a while, make sure to reconfirm the bus times.

Do not follow Google Maps! If you’re looking at directions on Ischia in Google Maps, it will come up with various bus route numbers that do not exist anymore.

While some of the routes themselves are essentially the same, the numbers/letters on the buses will not match what the directions say.

By taxi

At all of the ports on Ischia, as well as at other key locations, you’ll find taxi ranks with regular cars as well as small tuk-tuk style vehicles (the latter to navigate the small streets) available to take you wherever you want.

taxis lined up at ischia port
You can’t miss the taxi rank at the main port where drivers are waiting to pick you up directly from the ferry piers

Taxis are equipped with meters, although there are some fixed rates – these should be clearly displayed in English and Italian inside the car. Cards may not be accepted so it’s a good idea to always have some cash on hand.

By water taxi

Throughout the island you’ll also find various embarkation/disembarkation points for water taxis, not unlike those in Venice. These small boats offer an alternative method to getting around, and come with the added benefit of unique views of the island as you skirt the coast on your way.

picture of poster advertising water taxis to go around ischia
Boat taxis can be a fun way to get around, you’ll find them near the main beaches and sites such as the Aragonese Castle. Photo from August 2024 – prices subject to change.

Eating and drinking on Ischia

Ischia is a foodies paradise. The island has developed its own unique cuisine aside from Neapolitan and Italian in general, due to its isolation from the mainland.

Ischian cuisine is centered around making the most of the abundant resources and produce available on the island. While a lot of dishes appear simple, like the Ischian rabbit stew, the flavors are incredible and will leave you wanting more.

tomato basil bruschetta and iced tea
Ischia’s unique geology means anything that grows here is bursting with flavor, making even simple things like a tomato bruschetta taste incredible

Where to eat

We have two favorite spots to eat on Ischia, and would recommend you check these out on any visit here:

Tiramisu

This is one for the seafood lovers out there. Situated in the heart of Ischia porto, the menu features traditional dishes and leans into Ischia’s maritime culture – as you’d expect from somewhere on the port.

Be sure to try and get a table outside facing the marina and watch the yachts come in and out as you enjoy your fish!

seared tuna steak sliced on a plate with grilled vegetables
This was probably the best tuna steak I’ve ever had!

Castello Aragonese

At the Aragonese Castle you’ll find two places to eat that we recommend, situation dependent.

The first is a bistro/cafe located within the main visit area, offering simple and traditional options including Ischia’s iconic zingara – a hearty toasted sandwich perfect for refuelling after trekking up the castle ramparts!

zingara toasted sandwich with ham
This photo doesn’t do justice the zingara that you can get at the Aragonese Castle – if you go, try it – you won’t be disappointed!

The second option is La Cucina del Monastero, a high-end restaurant offering a unique tasting experience that is a tribute to Ischia’s food heritage.

Note that La Cucina del Monastero is only open during the evenings, and must be booked in advance. There are only 10 tables here to ensure the quality remains high, so be sure to plan ahead if this sounds like somewhere you’d like to dine!

What to eat

Beyond a zingara toasted sandwhich, here are two other things you should absolutely try when visiting Ischia:

  • Coniglio all’Ischitana, Ischia’s most iconic dish. This is a slow-cooked stew featuring rabbit in a savory sauce that is a symbol of the island’s traditional cooking and cuisine. Coniglio all’Ischitana is most often served with pasta or bread, but can be enjoyed on its own. You’ll find this dish on the menu at most traditional restaurants throughout Ischia – be sure to try it!
  • Rocolino, Ischia’s own liqueur and amaro. This unique digestivo is the perfect way to finish any meal, with the bittersweet flavor intended to clean your palate. This amaro is produced on the island and is made predominantly from arugula/rocket, with additional flavoring coming from citrus fruits and peel, herbs and roots. As well as enjoying this post-meal, you may also see it offered in a spritz at aperitivo time, substituting for Aperol or Campari to provide a more authentic Ischian experience.
rocolino spritz in a wine glass
Be sure to try Rocolino if you see it on offer as a digestivo or in a spritz – the flavors are the perfect embodiment of Ischia’s unique cuisine

Where to stay on Ischia

Ischia is bigger than a lot of people realise (it’s the biggest island in the Gulf of Naples) and as such there are a lot of accommodation options. This ensures healthy competition and prices never seem to spike in the same way as they do in more limited locations like Capri.

The most convenient place to stay on Ischia island is in the town of Ischia itself. This is because the majority of the ferries from Naples, Sorrento and Procida arrive and depart here at Ischia porto, and many hotels are within walking distance, or can be reached quickly via bus or taxi.

You are also within walking distance of several great beaches, the Aragonese Castle, and our favorite place to eat if you stay in Ischia town.

Another convenient location is Casamicciola Terme where some of the island’s ferries arrive and depart, but you will find fewer accommodation options here overall, as well as less going on generally.

If you are looking for something more secluded and away from the main towns, consider looking for an Agriturismo property in the interior of the island. By staying at one of the island’s many Agriturismi you can experience Ischia’s famous fresh produce and traditional dishes direct from the source.

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To sum up…

Ischia is a wonderful destination year-round, with plenty to do and see no matter what the weather is like. The landscape is like nothing else in Campania and you’re pretty much guaranteed to have a great time when you visit!

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