📍 Explore Campania:
Campania is one of Italy’s most varied and fascinating regions. The history contained in this relatively small space (5278 sq mi) in southern Italy rivals Rome and Lazio or Florence and Tuscany, and the land has gifted the world some of the most recognizable Italian food produce. Let’s explore beyond Naples!
Pompeii is the most well-known site in Campania but there are many more
Everything you need to know about traveling beyond Naples into Campania
If you have time during your visit to the area, we recommend exploring beyond Naples, Sorrento, Pompeii, the Amalfi Coast and the islands as much as possible.
In Campania you’ll discover endlessly fascinating history from ancient Greece and Rome through to World War II and modern day. You’ll explore off-the-beaten-path locations packed with local culture and enjoy some of the best Italian food you’ve ever eaten.
In this guide we’ll be talking about:
We’ll also be giving you some ideas of everything this region has to offer, including:
A brief history of Campania
Prior to the foundation of Naples by the ancient Greeks in the first millenium BCE, Campania was inhabited by a number of different tribes people with traces of habitation stretching back at least 6500 years from the present day.
These groups lived simple lives, subsiding on the land and sea which provided abundant sustenance thanks to the mineral soil fertilized by Mount Vesuvius.
The city of Naples was founded originally by ancient Greeks as one of several strategically located colony cities in southern Italy which at the time was known as ‘Magna Grecia’ – Greater Greece. Other examples of the legacy of the Greeks are still evident at places like Paestum, showing they chose where they located their settlements well!
The ancient Greeks recognized the value of the land close to Vesuvius, and Naples quickly grew to become a major center of commerce.
In the ensuing centuries, the city’s wealth attracted the attention of their northern neighbor; Rome. As Rome’s power grew, and they expanded their influence in Magna Grecia and the surrounding lands, conflict inevitably followed.
Ancient Roman columns were reused in Sorrento cathedral, taken from the ruined villas nearby
Naples Cathedral owes its rich decor to the wealthy royal kingdom that was established here
Naples as part of the Roman empire
After a series of wars, Naples and Campania fell well and truly under Roman rule. Under Roman control the Bay of Naples and Campania became the holiday spot of choice for the Roman elite. Between Naples and Rome, along the coast, large villas and residences sprung up with notable residents including Cicero and emperor Nero.
In 79 CE Mount Vesuvius erupted and destroyed huge amounts of the ground of Campania, burying complete settlements including Pompeii and Herculaneum.
After this catastrophic event the popularity of the area began to wane, and when further seismic and volcanic events led to more destruction, even destinations like Baiae fell out of favor with rich Romans.
After the fall of Rome in 472 CE, Campania and most of modern Italy came under the control of the Ostrogoths. Day to day life changed little, and the people of Campania continued as they had done for several hundred years; farming the land rich with the nutrients of Vesuvius and trading their goods with neighboring regions.
Naples after the fall of Rome
Between the 6th and 15th centuries, Naples and Campania was ruled by numerous cultures and kingdoms, with Spain ultimately taking over in 1504, ruling the area for just over 200 years (with a brief intermission where France controlled the Neapolitan kingdom).
Naples and Campania went through a turbulent few centuries. They declared independence, fell under the control of the Austrians, and also the French at different points, before the movement in the 1800’s to create a new, unified Italy gained momentum.
In 1861, Garibaldi entered Naples during his war of Italian unification and the city shortly after decided to join the newly formed Kingdom of Italy. Ever since that point Campania and Naples have remained part of Italy.
Why it’s worth exploring beyond Naples
To really understand this incredible part of Italy, you need to explore beyond Naples’ and Campania’s most famous areas. In doing so, you’ll find a region rich in culture, history, cuisine and more.
By travelling into the countryside outside Naples you’ll find a slower, more authentically-Italian way of life, devoid of crowds and tourist-focused experiences.
Some of the best meals I’ve ever had while living in Italy (including this lunch in Paestum) have been found in Campania
How to get around in Campania
I’ll cut to the chase here; the best way to explore Campania is via car – either driving yourself or by hiring a driver for your time here.
While some locations in this guide can be reached via public transport easily, others cannot.
Driving around Campania will give you added freedom to explore and enjoy the stunning countryside.
If you would prefer not to drive, all of the locations we are covering on this page can be reached via tours with pickups available from Naples.
Where public transport options are available, we have included information about these routes as well. The bus and train routes are generally reliable, but before setting off make sure you have checked return times and have purchased your return tickets.
Keep reading for specific details about each major site in Campania that we recommend visiting!
Curious to know more, or want to share your own tips? Leave a comment!
The Phlegraean Fields
The Phlegraean Fields, or Campi Flegri in Italian, refers to a large place west of Naples on the edge of the gulf.
This is a huge active caldera, part of the same volcanic system as Vesuvius, but is also home to modern towns.
Within the Phlegraean Fields there are a number of notable sites which are well worth the trip for history and nature lovers. Our highlights and recommendations include:
- Pozzuoli, where you’ll find a well preserved ancient Roman amphitheater, the third largest in Italy after the Colosseum and the one at nearby Capua, and temple/market complex. The different ancient sites are within the modern town which sits on the water.
- Baiae, now a small port town, was once ancient Rome’s equivalent of Las Vegas where the rich and powerful came to play. You’ll discover a sprawling archeological park where you can explore the ancient Roman town and can also take a trip out to sea to view the many underwater ruins here.
- Cumae, the legendary home of the Sybil, an ancient classical prophet referenced in the Aeneid by Virgil. Only excavated properly in the 18th century, today the archeological park contains ruins of different temple complexes, tombs and buildings dating back to the ancient settlement of the oracle.
Baiae is one of my favorite archeological sites anywhere; the ruins are expansive and there are almost always no crowds
Baiae archeological park is completely open and you are free to wander the ancient ruins, exploring the remains in peace
The sites are managed by a single organization and there is a combo ticket that allows you to visit all the different parts. This ticket is valid for 3 consecutive days and if you want to see all of the Phlegraean Fields, you will likely need to spread out your visit over at least 2 days as there is so much to see!
Opening hours vary according to day of the week and season so check in advance on the official website here to avoid being disappointed.
How to get to the Phlegraean Fields:
If driving, simply set Google Maps to the location you are wanting to visit and set off!
- For Pozzuoli head to Stazione Di Montesanto in central Naples and take the Campi Flegri train line to Pozzuoli station. The main sites – the amphitheater and ancient market area – are easily reached on foot from the train station in less than 10 minutes.
- For Baiae our method of choice whenever we visit is to drive and park at this car park. Alternatively, from Naples, head to Stazione Di Montesanto and take the Campi Flegri line to Fusaro station. The archeological park and port are then around a 15-20 minute walk, meaning a total journey time from central Naples of just over an hour.
- For Cumae, consider booking a tour if you are interested in seeing the ancient ruins and home of the Sybil. There is no direct route from Naples via public transport, and visits to this area can be limited due to volcanic activity in the Phlegraean caldera and as such accessing areas with a local guide is highly recommended.
Capua (Santa Maria Capua Vetere)
Capua was Campania’s regional capital during ancient Roman times. The ancient Via Appia highway ran through the town, connecting it directly with Rome in the north and the rest of Roman-controlled land in southern Italy.
These days Capua is a small town with one principal reason to visit as a tourist. Here you will find the well preserved remains of an ancient Roman amphitheater, and it was here that the infamous gladiator Spartacus trained and began his slave revolt against Rome.
Capua’s is one of Italy’s best preserved ancient amphitheaters
Don’t miss the opportunity to explore the underground area of the arena
A visit to the amphitheater and adjoining museum will take a maximum of 1.5 hours so you can easily combine it with another visit such as Caserta (see below for details about this).
On site you’ll find a well-stocked book and gift shop, and a great bistro/café that is perfect for taking a break.
How to get to Capua:
If you are driving, I’d recommend setting your Google Maps to the Anfiteatro Campano and parking anywhere nearby – there is not a dedicated car park for the amphitheater.
For public transport, there are regular trains that leave from Napoli Centrale to Capua, and then it is a 20 minute walk to the amphitheater.
Use Trainline to plan your journey, purchase your tickets and stay up to date with the latest schedules.
Driving in Italy
If you are planning on driving in Italy, there are some key things to be aware of:
- The autostrade (freeways/motorways) are often tolled, with booths at regular intervals and exit junctions. The average cost is around 1€ per 10km travelled. In no cicumstance should you use the yellow ‘Telepass’ lanes at these boothes – these are reserved for pass holders only, and incorrect use will result in a heavy fine.
- When looking for parking, try to find any spaces that are painted with white markings (free) or blue (paid – look a the nearby meter and use coins). Yellow bays are reserved for businesses, residents and other authorised vehicles. If you are unsure, head to a regular parking lot using Google Maps.
Caserta
Just outside of Naples, and reachable in under an hour either by car or public transport, you will find one of Italy’s greatest architectural marvels and a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The Royal Palace of Caserta was constructed by the kings of Naples in the 18th century, and is now officially the largest royal palace in the world.
Inspired by the Palace of Versailles in France, this massive complex was home to Neapolitan and then later Italian royalty until the early 1920’s.
During the Fascist period and Second World War the palace was at the center of events, first as an Italian military academy and then later as a headquarters for liberating Allied forces.
This view from the top of Caserta’s gardens give some sense of the scale of this incredible place
In more recent times Caserta has played host to filmmakers including George Lucas who shot scenes for Star Wars Episode 1: The Phantom Menace in the grand halls of the palace.
And if the palace itself wasn’t impressive enough, wait until you see the gardens! At over 100 hectares of open land you could easily spend days exploring the various parts, along with the large water features.
One tip; if you visit, take advantage of the shuttle service that can take you to one end of the gardens to the other – you’ll thank me later for the time and energy saved!
Getting to Caserta
Caserta is located just off the A1 autostrada (freeway/motorway) that connects Naples with Rome, Florence and Milan. As such, driving here couldn’t be easier and you’ll find a large underground secure parking lot close to the royal palace.
Alternatively, use the regional trains that run from Napoli Centrale to Caserta frequently, with the journey time taking less than an hour on average. The train station in Caserta is only a short walk to the palace.
Paestum
Paestum, like Naples, was originally founded by the ancient Greeks as a colony and then later subsumed by the Romans.
Paestum is a history lovers paradise; Paestum features the best preserved ancient Greek temples on the Italian mainland
This has to be one of my favorite places to visit beyond Naples and the bay area for a number of reasons:
- Here you will find some of the best examples of ancient Greek temples still standing outside of Greece, rivalled only those in Sicily.
- Paestum is situated in an area of outstanding natural beauty where you are surrounded by seemingly endless pasture for buffalo (producing the best mozzarella anywhere) before the land gives way to the sea.
- If you are a meat and/or cheese enjoyer, the food in this part of Campania is unrivalled. Mentioned above, this area produces the best mozzarella in my opinion, using milk from the locally reared buffalo who graze on the lands nourished by the sea and Vesuvius. These same buffalo are used to produce a huge range of cured meats, as well as steaks, which can only be considered on par with Tuscany’s famous beef herds when it comes to taste and tenderness.
The archeological park of Paestum is an evocative site with ancient Greek and Roman ruins in beautiful countryside, along with a small but interesting museum telling the story of this incredibly old place. Don’t miss the unique Tomb of the Diver in the museum, dating back to the 5th century BCE.
Getting to Paestum:
Paestum is straightforward to reach. Take one of the trains that go from Napoli Centrale to the modern station of Paestum which take between 1.5-2 hours, some direct and some via Salerno, and then it is a 15 minute walk to the archeological park.
The train schedule can be a little irregular so double check your return journey carefully.
You can also drive, with a large car park available, or take a tour with transport included. Some tours to Paestum also include a visit to a local buffalo farm where you can meet the beasts who are producing your lunch, a fun experience for anyone interested in learning more about Italian and Campanian culture!
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Salerno
Salerno is the second largest city in Campania, and the last major city on Italy’s Tyrennian coast before reaching Reggio Calabria at the tip of Italy’s geographic boot.
Salerno, like Naples, is a vibrant city with a lot of history. You could easily spend several days here and only scratch the surface!
In the centro storico (historic center) you’ll find the Duomo of Salerno, a striking cathedral which houses relics of Saint Matthew the Apostle, the patron saint of the city.
The beaches south of Salerno (on the way to Paestum) saw Allied landings during the Second World War during the campaign to liberate Italy. Only a few traces of this moment in history still remain, but visiting the beaches here can be a powerful experience to remember the events that have shaped the world we live in.
While modest compared to other Italian cathedrals, Salerno’s Duomo is a fantastic example of how architectural styles vary across the country
Getting to Salerno:
The easiest and quickest way to get to Salerno is by train. There are regular departures from Napoli Centrale train station, and the journey takes between 45 minutes to 1 hour on average.
On arrival at Salerno station, the historic center is a 10-15 minute walk, and the Duomo around 20 minutes by foot.
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Ancient Roman villas of the Bay of Naples (Pompeii suburban villas)
Dotted around the Bay of Naples and Vesuvius are a number of Roman villas which offer insights into how all classes of people lived in ancient times. Notable examples include:
Oplontis (Villa di Poppea)
This sprawling imperial complex is one of the best preserved ancient Roman villas anywhere.
Known as the Villa of Poppea, evidence suggests this villa was owned by the second wife (or the family of) of the ancient Roman emperor Nero.
This would explain the extremely intricate frescoes that decorate the interior spaces of this villa, along with the grand architectural features found throughout.
If you’re looking for somewhere off the beaten path, look no further than the Pompeii Suburban villas where you’ll find an incredible level of ancient preservation
The opulence of the Villa Oplontis is evident in the frescoes and other interior decoration that you’ll find throughout this sprawling imperial residence
Villa Ariana and San Marco
These two villas, within 10 minutes’ walk of each other (if you’re not opting to use the shuttle bus from Pompeii – more on this below), offer an insight into how the wealthy lived in the Bay of Naples area prior to the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 CE.
Both villas are in an extremely good condition, with frescoes and original ancient decoration throughout still dazzling visitors today.
Boscoreale (Villa Regina)
This villa is the humblest of those available to readily visit – in fact, the word ‘villa’ is a stretch.
This was more a farmhouse for an ancient wine producer, but where its appearance may appear humble, its historical value is huge. Perfectly preserved by the volcanic material that covered the place during the 79 CE, the insights uncovered by archeologists here have shed light on how landowners lived and worked in ancient times.
How to get to the ancient Roman villas of the Bay of Naples (Pompeii suburban villas)
Visiting these villas is far easier these days compared to the first time I visited! Previously you’d have to drive to each of these villas if you wanted to see them all in a day as the local public transport was unreliable.
However, now the villas officially fall under the management of the archeological park of Pompeii, things have changed.
You can purchase combo tickets that include some or all of the villas with Pompeii itself, which includes transport on a shuttle bus service that departs from Pompeii at regular intervals. For full information, refer to the official website here.
Benevento
This inland town, now far from most traveller’s itineraries, was once one of the most important locations in Campania.
During ancient times the city was wealthy, the legacy of which carried through to the Middle Ages where Benevento was once the capital of a small but influential Duchy.
Visitors to Benevento now will find numerous well-preserved ancient Roman monuments, as well as the UNESCO World Heritage site Santa Sofia Church from the 8th century.
How to get to Benevento
If you are not driving while exploring Campania, your best option to reach Benevento is to use the regional trains that operate between Naples and Caserta and then transfer to the trains to Benevento itself – you’ll find several options running per day.
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To sum up…
There are a huge number of things to do and see beyond Naples, so including at least one or two of these in your travel itinerary is an excellent idea.
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