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The Amalfi coast is one of the most iconic Italian destinations, with picturesque towns built into tall cliffs framed by citrus trees and the deep blue sea, but this does mean that it can get extremely busy.
Knowing how to navigate the Amalfi coast and the crowds it attracts is essential when planning a trip here, so lets dive in!
La Dolce Vita, ‘The Sweet Life’ awaits you on the Amalfi Coast
Exploring the Amalfi Coast – Everything you need to know
Firstly, you should absolutely visit the Amalfi coast. It is a unique place that has a lot to offer so don’t let the images of crowded streets put you off!
Yes, if you visit Positano or Amalfi at the height of the busy summer season you may struggle to enjoy yourself, but there is much more to the Amalfi coast than these two hot spots.
Our recommendation is to get off the main tourist route and extend your exploration to the other towns along the Amalfi coast – keep reading to see more about these other destinations.
But first, in this guide we’ll be talking about:
And then we’ll talk about the different towns of the Amalfi coast:
What is the Amalfi coast?
The Amalfi coast is a long stretch of coastline on the Mediterranean sea south of Sorrento, that ends just before the city of Salerno.
Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997, this part of Italy has long been popular with visitors and the strict building rules in place mean that in some ways the towns and surroundings have stayed unchanged.
The 55km/34m long coast is dotted with many small towns, which are linked by one road that winds its way along the edge of the cliffs.
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The history of the Amalfi coast
Similar to Sorrento, the Amalfi coast was recognized as being an ideal place to vacation by the ancient Romans, with there being evidence of fancy seaside villas being built over 2000 years ago.
The first settlements along the coastline were established in response to the ancient Roman interests. When the western Roman empire collapsed in the 5th century, the area was fought over by various foreign powers for hundreds of years due to its ideal location.
This period of instability ended when the town of Amalfi declared itself a republic in 839. They had had enough of being told what to do by others and wanted to go it alone!
Amalfi was still a small settlement but its sailing fleet was one of the more impressive in the region. Amalfi ships and traders were traveling as far afield as Egypt and Constantinople (modern day Istanbul) and once the wealth started staying in Amalfi after it declared independence, the town rapidly expanded and the new duchy came to control the wider area.
Be sure to visit the incredibly well-preserved Villa Romano in Positano to see breathtaking ancient frescoes like this
On a par with the other major Italian maritime republics of Pisa, Genoa and Venice, Amalfi remained important and influential until the later 11th century. At this time it came under attack by both the Normans (who were at this time extending their reach from Sicily across the whole of southern Italy) and then their rivals from Pisa.
Pisan ships sacked Amalfi multiple times in the 1100’s which led to a decline in importance. Money continued to flow in, with the impressive Amalfi cathedral being built after the Pisan attacks. A new process for making paper was also introduced (thanks to inspiration from their trade in the East) which generated a lot of income for Amalfi, being one of the first places in Europe to produce paper.
Take a moment to look up at Amalfi’s impressive cathedral and take in the intricate details and decoration
However, the bright star of the Amalfi republic was about to burn out. The plague hit the Amalfi coast in the early 14th century, severely reducing the population, and then a devastating earthquake hit in 1343. The underwater earthquake caused a tsunami which destroyed not only the port of Amalfi but a large part of the town itself as well.
All along the Amalfi coast the impact of the tsunami was felt and following this, the area never recovered. The towns fell back into a more isolated and slower way of life, coming under the control of the kingdom of Naples. One of those kings, Ferdinand II, ordered a road to be built in the 19th century to connect the Amalfi coast towns with each other as well as with Sorrento and Salerno, which allowed people to visit more easily.
A stop on the European Grand Tour, tales of the unspoiled beauty of the area began to be spread in the late 1800’s, leading to the start of the area’s now primary income stream – tourism!
Amalfi’s heritage is honored in Italy’s maritime flag (the blue cross) where it features alongside the other great sea powers of Italy; Venice (top left), Genoa (top right) and Pisa (bottom right)
Why you should include the Amalfi coast in your Italy itinerary
There is truly nothing like the Amalfi coast in our opinion. Your first sight of the colorful towns built along the rough edges of the enormous cliffs will be breathtaking, especially if you arrive by boat.
Between the multitude of small beach coves, the stunningly blue water, lemon trees everywhere you look and unique buildings, there is no end of beauty to enjoy.
This is definitely an area where you need to slow down to fully appreciate it, with only a few smaller things to do, but this is part of the fun! There is a type of enforced relaxed attitude here that you cannot help but feel as you walk around, so lean into it and see where your wanderings take you.
With views like this, why wouldn’t you want to visit?
How to get to the Amalfi Coast from Naples
Whether you’re traveling by train from Rome, Florence or elsewhere in Italy, flying into Naples’ airport or taking a car or bus, most people starting their trip to the Amalfi coast will be doing so here.
Your journey options are:
By Sea
By far the simplest way to travel is on one of the many ferries that leave from Naples.
Some stop directly at individual towns, especially Positano and Amalfi, but for the smaller towns you will likely have to get a ferry to Sorrento, and then change onto one that stops more frequently.
Either way the ferry is far and away the most efficient mode of transport. Plus, in my opinion, it’s much more preferable if you’re going just for the day to arrive at the base of the town where most of the main attractions will be, rather than having to walk down a long way from where buses drop off at the top of the cliff.
During high season it’s a good idea to book your ferry tickets in advance, and pay attention to your return timings!
While the ferry is the better option most of the year, during the winter the services are heavily reduced and will be cancelled if the weather is bad.
For the best views of the Amalfi Coast take a ferry or private boat transfer
By Road
From Naples there is a main road which heads south towards Pompeii, which turns into a smaller road that cuts across the headland towards Positano and then follows the coastline towards Salerno.
There are a few different roads that cut across the headland so the exact route will change depending on which Amalfi coast town you are going to, but the distance is around 50-60km/31-37m.
The time this journey will take varies considerably. Due to the narrow roads and high traffic volumes in the summer it can easily take over 2 hours, and unfortunately when accidents happen and roads close, there are no real diversions leading to gigantic queues.
Driving the Amalfi Coast is not recommended – instead, consider using the bus network from Salerno
If you’re traveling out of season or have no time restraints then the road option can be fine, but if you need to be somewhere or are here in high season, it may not be the best choice for you.
I would strongly dissuade you from hiring a rental car and driving yourself, these roads are extremely challenging to navigate, even for people used to driving in Italy. There is also very little car parking available.
To go direct to any of the Amalfi coast towns you will need to hire a private driver or take a taxi as there are no direct buses from Naples. Alternatively you can get to Sorrento or Salerno and then take a local bus to your final destination.
By Train
There is not a train line along the Amalfi coast, but you can take a train to Vietri sul Mare, the last town on the coast (closest to Salerno). There are some direct trains between Naples and Vietri sul Mare, and plenty of connections from Salerno, so you can choose the best option for you. This will likely depend on where you are traveling from within Italy.
Once in Vietri sul Mare, you can take a ferry or local bus to other places along the coast.
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How to explore the Amalfi coast
As I mentioned above, there are buses and ferries which connect the different towns as well as to Sorrento and Salerno.
By Boat
There are ferries that go up and down the coast, with an increased service during late spring, summer and early fall. If you want to hop between the smaller towns, do some research when you get to your base location as often the companies that run these routes do not have reliable information online.
When it comes to Amalfi and Positano there are more ferry options due to their popularity so you will have your pick. Remember that tickets are not interchangeable between ferry companies so pay attention to the timings, especially for the return. The companies are all pretty similar so we always go for whatever the most convenient ferry is rather than waiting for a particular option.
You can also reach Capri, Salerno, Ischia and Procida on the various ferry routes that crisscross the Bay of Naples.
If you prefer to have a more exclusive experience, you can also arrange a boat trip. There are lots of different options and routes, some of which are surprisingly affordable, so doing a boat trip can be a great way to explore.
By Bus
There are buses run by a company called SITA that go all over the Amalfi coast, with various routes connecting different locations. You cannot purchase tickets on these buses so you’ll need to find a tobacco shop, bar or other place selling SITA tickets in advance – look for their logo on display.
If you are in Sorrento, find the SITA bus stop directly opposite the main train station
While there are a few different ticket types, the easiest to deal with are the Corsa Semplice. These are inexpensive and simple to use in that you need one of these per person, per bus you ride on. Sometimes you will need to change and get on a second bus to complete your journey which requires a second single ticket so remember to have enough tickets with you to cover every stage!
When you get on a bus you will need to put your ticket in a machine near the driver which will validate it. Hold on to this validated ticket until you get off just in case a ticket inspector asks to see it.
The buses on the Amalfi Coast are almost always very busy – I took this photo in Amalfi in October which is considered a quieter month on the whole, but as you can see, there are still a lot of people waiting for the bus back to Sorrento
The SITA buses get EXTREMELY busy in the summer. They pack people on the buses so sometimes you may have to stand, the buses are hot and you run the risk of not being able to get on at all if it is full. While it is much cheaper to get the bus, our advice would always be to have a backup option in your mind, and never take the bus if you have to be somewhere at a particular time.
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Amalfi Town
The central town and the one that gave its name to the whole coast, Amalfi is a perfect vacation destination.
Offering more sightseeing opportunities than many of the other towns, in Amalfi you can visit the Duomo, the most important church here, which has an imposing presence over the central piazza. The Duomo is dedicated to Saint Andrew, Amalfi’s patron saint, whose relics were brought here after the sack of Constantinople in 1204.
Don’t miss the adjoining Chiostro del Paradiso (Cloister of Paradise) which is a lovely shady space, built in the 13th century to act as the resting place for the high ranking Amalfi residents.
Amalfi’s historic power and wealth is evident in the incredible cathedral you’ll find in the center of town
You can also include a trip to the Paper Museum where you can learn about the history of early paper making and how important it was to Amalfi, before purchasing some of this handmade paper nearby. There are plenty more places to shop, wander the narrow streets and see what you find!
If you’d prefer to soak up the sun, you have various different beaches to choose from, including the Marina Grande beach, Lido delle Sirene beyond the port and Santa Croce (which you have to take a boat to reach).
You’ll find a number of stabilimenti (beach clubs) within easy reach of the main port in Amalfi
Atrani
The tiny town of Atrani is right next to Amalfi, but has an entirely different feel!
The medieval structure of the fishing village has been preserved, starting at the water’s edge which leads to the town center before winding up the cliff with multiple staircases, small passageways and buildings that seem to be stacked on top of each other, all interspersed with little gardens.
The views from Atrani are spectacular, and the higher you go the better they get!
Atrani’s cove-like beach is a great place to escape the crowds and soak up some sun
Atrani has always had close links with the nearby town of Amalfi, sharing in the riches during the Republic’s peak period. Many churches were built in and around Atrani, including the church of San Salvatore de’Birecto where the Doges of the Amalfi Republic were crowned.
The main beach here is sandy unlike many of the other Amalfi coast beaches, and is well worth taking the time to visit if you’re looking for a more relaxed day. You can take the local SITA buses which stop on the road just above the beach or walk from Amalfi.
Conca dei Marini
Only slightly larger than tiny Atrani, Conca dei Marini is one of the least visited Amalfi coast towns, however there are two very good reasons to make a stop here.
First up are the absolutely delicious sfogliatella Santa Rosa, created at the monastery dedicated to her right here. While the sfogliatella evolved in nearby Naples to the frolla and riccia versions you will see all over Campania, the Santa Rosa variety differs in having cream and raspberries and is celebrated every August in big festival. Be sure to go into a pastry shop and try one if you see them on sale!
The second reason is the Emerald Grotto. Only discovered in 1932, the sea cave creates the most wonderful green light due to the way sunlight reaches the water. This place was made extra special in 1956 when an underwater white nativity scene was put in place by divers, where every Christmas a special procession takes place to lay flowers at the feet of the baby Jesus figure.
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Cetara
Found on the eastern side of the Amalfi coast, Cetara was founded by a group of Saracen pirates who landed here and set up a base to continue their raids along the Italian coastline. Nowadays it is much more famous for its incredible seafood, having long been large producers of top quality red tuna and other fish.
In particular, Cetara is known for producing Colatura di Alici, a savory sauce made from anchovies that has its roots in the ancient Roman ‘garum’ sauce. It’s used with pasta and other dishes and is a truly unique flavor – make sure to try some when you visit!
You can see the last remnant of the town’s origins at the Tower of Cetara which was a watchtower set up to monitor potential threats to the pirates, or simply relax at one of the beaches stretching out in front of the small town.
The local SITA bus that runs between Salerno and Amalfi stops here, at the back of the town near the main piazza, so you can easily reach it from either location.
Furore
The small seaside villa of Furore is built around the ‘fjord’ in the cliffs, which is not really a fjord but rather a valley carved out from the cliff by the river Schiato.
The small Fiorde di Furore beach at the base of the cliffs can only be reached on foot, by climbing down steep stairs that are cut into the rock – definitely an experience, but maybe not for people who are not good with heights or have more limited mobility.
If you don’t feel up to climbing down (and back up!) to the beach, then luckily the village itself is entirely charming. In the 1980’s a special program was launched to encourage artists to come and create murals on the walls of the buildings in Furore, so everywhere you walk you will see something unique.
You should also taste the white wine made with a local grape variety known as Fiorduva, which takes on a special flavor profile thanks to the growing conditions on the cliffs.
Maiori
Maiori was one of the vacation locations popular with the ancient Romans, in part because it is flatter and has a large sandy beach – unusual for the Amalfi coast.
The main beach is in fact the largest along the coastline and therefore attracts many people during the summer looking for a relaxing day taking a dip in the sea before enjoying an excellent meal at one of the many restaurants.
I love Maiori, which has a friendly and welcoming feel to it. Take a walk along the wide, tree-lined promenade before a long lunch and a dip in the sea.
If you’re up for something more active during your time in Maiori, why not jog along the promenade here and feel better about having an indulgent lunch and/or dinner?
From Maiori you can easily reach Positano, Amalfi or Sorrento and there is a lot to enjoy in the town and surrounding area. One of our favorite things to do is to take the Lemon path, a route that takes you from Maiori to nearby Minori in around an hour and a half that was originally built for the people harvesting and transporting the lemons that grow so well here. If you are in Maiori when the harvest is ongoing (mid-May to early July) you will still see locals using this path for this purpose!
If you’re looking to relax in Maiori, head to the beach where you can enjoy the crystal clear waters and amazing views of the coastline
Maiori is a popular place for visitors to stay, even into the shoulder season, so expect the local buses to be busy if you’re exploring the Amalfi coast. The beaches also get very busy in July and August, but outside of this time you’ll easily find a place to lay out.
Minori
The town of Minori marks the center of the Amalfi Coast, close to its neighbor Maiori. As the name suggests, this is the smaller of the two and offers a quieter and more tranquil experience. Sit back and relax at one of the many restaurants facing the sea – Minori has a well-deserved reputation for excellent food.
In addition to the Lemon path mentioned above, Minori has ruins of an ancient Roman villa, the Villa Marittima, which you can visit and a small beach with a backdrop of colorful buildings.
History lovers should head to this museum in Minori to explore the remains of a Roman villa
I always feel like I’ve stepped into an Italian film when I visit Minori. Small boats are pulled up on the beach, with locals sitting on the sand reading a newspaper. The quiet town is incredibly picturesque, there are flowers everywhere with small cafes serving coffee and gelato. Everything is done at a slower pace – no bad thing on vacation!
You can reach Minori by local bus year round, and there are also ferry connections along the coast and to Capri during the summer months from the small harbour.
Just being in Minori is a pleasure, and encourages you to take life a little bit more slowly than normal
Positano
Despite the crowds of tourists that swarm to Positano in the summer, this famous town still has a charm that makes it well worth visiting.
Ferries dock at the base of the town, from which you can head to the beach of Spiaggia Grande or up into the narrow streets filled with shops and restaurants. Don’t miss the church of Santa Maria Assunta with the stunning colorful tiled dome (the inside is lovely too) or head away from Positano along a small path to reach Fornillo which has a lovely beach and less people.
If you’re looking for a day at the beach, Positano is a great option!
Positano is also a must for history lovers with the town’s ancient legacy visitable at the Villa Romano
My favorite thing to do is visit the remains of an ancient Roman villa that was discovered right underneath the church. Preserved for centuries by the effects of the same eruption of Vesuvius that destroyed Pompeii, the frescoes are some of the most vivid I’ve ever seen. Visitors are only allowed underground in small groups so make sure to book your tickets in advance if you’d like to see this for yourself!
It is possible to escape the worst of the crowds when you visit Positano on a day trip by taking quieter side streets and timing it to arrive as early as possible, but the best way is to stay overnight. The tourists here for the day have to leave on the last ferry or buses and then Positano becomes much more enjoyable later in the evening. Get up extra early the next morning to see the peace as the sun rises over the Spiaggia Grande beach and the bobbing boats for an unforgettable experience!
Praiano
Praiano is about halfway between Amalfi and Positano and has long been a popular vacation destination, with the Doges of the Amalfi Republic using it as their summer residence.
There are multiple beaches and beach clubs to choose from, some of which offer the use of little wooden row boats to guests which is a fun experience! The sunsets here are absolutely spectacular as well.
Praiano has a wide choice of hotels and while not unknown, is definitely quieter than its neighbors so can be a good base from which to explore the Amalfi Coast.
Vietri sul Mare
The final town before reaching Salerno, Vietri sul Mare is very popular with Italians. Partly because it is the easiest Amalfi Coast town to reach, but also because there are multiple larger beaches, excellent restaurants and the colorful ceramic tiles Vietri is famous for.
Vietri bookmarks one end of the Amalfi Coast and as such offers incredible views of this iconic coastline
Every time you turn a corner you’ll see different styles of ceramics and tiles in stores and on every surface in the town, so you definitely shouldn’t leave without buying something to remember your time here! You can visit the Ceramic Museum to learn more about the history of the craft in this area as well.
Looking for an authentic souvenir from the Amalfi Coast? You won’t struggle to find the perfect thing to take home in one of Vietri’s many famous ceramic stores
Ravello
Ravello is very different in that it is not on the sea. Instead, it is located high up on the cliffs so was able to expand much easier than the other places along the Amalfi Coast.
In the 11th century Ravello had become so prosperous that it attempted to break free from the Amalfi Republic and appoint its own duke, but after a destructive attack by the Pisan navy, the town fell into decline.
A testament to Ravello’s old power and wealth can be found at the town’s Duomo where you’ll find ancient doors brought back here from Constantinople during the crusades.
History lovers shouldn’t miss the opportunity to see these incredible bronze doors from ‘New Rome’
It was the rediscovery of the area in the 1800’s as part of the Grand Tour that saw Ravello make a resurgence, inspiring many artists and creatives over the decades. People as varied as the German composer Wagner, Dutch artist Escher, English novelist Virginia Woolf and American actor Truman Capote stayed in Ravello and talked about its beauty.
Wandering the gardens of Villa Cimbrone is one of my favorite things to do in Ravello
Places like the Villa Rufolo which dates back to the 13th century and the even older Villa Cimbrone with its incredible Terrace of Infinity and breathtaking views make leaving the sea behind you well worth it!
Even further inland is Scala, which is also held to be the oldest town on the Amalfi Coast. Similar to Ravello, this was much more important which is why the 12th century cathedral is so large in comparison to Scala itself!
Need another reason to visit Ravello? The whole town is a protected cat sanctuary where the community cares for their collective feline friends
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To sum up…
The Amalfi coast deserves its famous reputation with lots of different places to explore that do not need to be full of other visitors, so why not include it in your Campania travel plans?
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