The Definitive Guide To The Special Neapolitan Pizza

When I first moved to Italy, I wasn’t the biggest pizza fan. Yes, I liked it in certain situations, but it was never a go-to option for me. Trying Neapolitan pizza in Naples changed all that. There really is something extra special about the pizza here, both in the way it is baked and the quality of the toppings. In this guide I’ll be sharing why pizza in Naples is so special and how you can try the authentic version for yourself.

Everything You Need to Know About Neapolitan Pizza

Pizza in Naples is so good that it turned me into someone who loves a simple pizza Margherita. The creamy mozzarella pairs perfectly with the sweet tomato sauce, and the flavor of the dough itself is so tasty when done right. You don’t need to visit well-known places to experience this revelation though, as there are lots of amazing pizzeria options all over the city.

Choosing where to eat pizza is all about knowing what makes a good Neapolitan pizza, so in this guide I’ll be talking about:

• What makes Neapolitan pizza special?
• The different types of pizza in Naples
• How to make sure you are eating true Neapolitan pizza
• What to eat before your pizza arrives
• Neapolitan pizza FAQs

History of Pizza in Naples

Originally it was a food for the poorer people, but then the rich and noble started to enjoy it too. In only a few decades, pizza had gone from a basic street food to a restaurant-quality dish, with the very first pizzeria opening in 1830. Incredibly, this restaurant is still open today – you can visit Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba for yourself easily as it is just off Piazza Dante.

From this point on pizza was an essential part of Neapolitan life for everyone. The concept spread to other places in Italy, and then later around the world as Italian immigrants brought their culinary heritage with them.

I have eaten many pizzas in many different places, but when you come to Naples and learn about its origins, it makes every slice that little bit more special.

You might think that pizza is simply pizza, but in Naples there are multiple forms and you won’t find every type in every pizza spot.

First up is the classic pizza. The dough is shaped to be round, toppings are added and then the pizza is baked. This is how most pizzas are served in the majority of restaurants, both for sit-down meals and as a takeaway. The round pizza in Naples is always served whole, not sliced, straight from the oven. Unless that is, you’ve chosen a calzone, which is prepared by folding the pizza dough in half to create a filled pizza parcel.

You will occasionally find slices of pizza for sale as street food, but these look quite different. Called pizza a teglia or al taglio, these pizzas are baked in large rectangular pans and then customers choose how large of a slice they want. The base is slightly thicker which means it holds up well to be eaten on the go. In Naples this style of pizza is often referred to as focaccia, but this is different to the plain focaccia bread you find in other parts of Italy.

Pizza a Portafoglio and Pizza Fritta

There are two other street food pizza options which you’ll find everywhere; pizza a portafoglio and pizza fritta.

Pizza fritta is the richer of the two, made by filling pizza dough that is sealed and then deep fried. Traditionally filled with ricotta cheese and small pieces of salami, pizza fritta should always be prepared fresh to order and eaten quickly.

This is a relatively new addition to the Neapolitan pizza scene, invented after World War II. During the war Naples had been heavily bombed and many people and businesses no longer had functioning ovens or spaces to set up seating. The city and region were also struggling to recover financially.

Fried pizza didn’t need big ovens to be made, just a pot of oil, and you didn’t need to sit down with a knife and fork to eat it. The dough could also be filled with the cheaper ricotta and meat or vegetable scraps, rather than expensive tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella. Pizza fritta caught on and even after Naples had rebuilt, people still wanted it!

Pizza a portafoglio is much more traditional. A smaller Neapolitan pizza is baked (usually pizza margherita or marinara) with less topping than normal, and then is folded into quarters to make a pizza parcel. This is easy to eat while standing or walking, and the smaller size and volume of toppings makes it a great budget option. I love this style of pizza, it’s just so satisfying to eat!

This usually does not mean places that have become well-known online. There are some pizzerie in Naples that have been featured in movies or on top 5 lists that involve long waits to eat, higher prices and an experience that is not what you’ll find elsewhere. The famous pizzeria of l’Antica Pizzeria da Michele was fine but not extraordinary, and in general my advice would be to go somewhere a local suggests instead.

Check out my other pizza guide here for specific recommendations from Warren and I, as well as some of our Neapolitan friends for some of our favourite pizza spots.

Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (AVPN)

One way to know you are getting the real deal is to check the listings of the AVPN. This association was established in the 1980’s to prevent the term “Neapolitan pizza” being used for poor quality products. They created a code to certify what this term means, which was based on the traditions passed down through generations, and helped Neapolitan pizza achieve protected status.

The AVPN defined what ingredients must be used to make the dough, the preparation method, the fermentation process, how to form the pizza base, what toppings can be used and the baking. They work with individuals so that they can be officially called a Pizzaiolo (a pizza maker), who are committed to following the rules for this type of pizza.

The rules are very specific. The olive oil must be poured on with a spiral motion, fresh basil leaves should be added after baking and the mozzarella cheese needs to be distributed evenly for example.

This attention to detail is what elevates a good pizza to an excellent one, and if you want to be sure of high quality when visiting Naples, you can browse the list of pizzerie who are members of the AVPN here. Members exist in other Italian regions as well as countries including the US, Japan and Australia.

It is important to note that not all of my favorite pizza in Naples comes from an AVPN member, so you will find many great places outside of this list, but it is an excellent place to start.

Signs of Authentic Pizza

Outside of the AVPN, how else can you know if your pizza will be a good one? Here are the four things I look for to make a judgement before ordering:

1. How much is a pizza Margherita? To sit down in a restaurant, a margherita should not cost more than 8€. If you’re seeing this priced higher, the target market is probably tourists and so there is a higher chance the quality won’t be as good.
2. Is there a traditional pizza oven visible? Neapolitan pizza is baked in a large domed brick oven, which are usually very visible from the dining area. The oven is generally close to the customers so that pizza can be served as quickly as possible, so if you can’t see this oven, it could be an indication that it is not authentic pizza on the menu.
3. What type of tomatoes and mozzarella are listed? So much of Neapolitan pizza is about simplicity and letting the ingredients shine. Look for specifics like Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP and San Marzano tomatoes in menu descriptions, rather than just mozzarella and tomato sauce.
4. How many topping combinations do they offer? If a restaurant has pages and pages of different topping options, this can mean that the quality of all those ingredients won’t always be that great. Also, if those toppings feel more like something you’d see at home (pineapple is a big giveaway!) than in Italy, again, the focus is probably more on tourists.

Now that I’ve covered what Neapolitan pizza itself is all about, it’s time to go back a step and talk about what comes before the pizza arrives.

While you can opt to go straight for a pizza, locals like to have something as an appetiser first. Almost every pizzeria will have lots of different choices available, with the traditional starters often being versions of Neapolitan street food. It’s common to order a few plates to share as a table, to whet your appetite for the main event.

My Top Neapolitan Antipasti

While restaurants have endless variation in their antipasti sections, and we’re always finding new things, my favorite antipasti choices are:

• Frittatina – these will always be my go-to in Naples. Pasta pieces are mixed with a thick bechamel before being breaded and fried, creating the perfect bite! The traditional frittatina comes with pieces of ham and peas, but you’ll often see others too.
• Zeppole – one of the simplest antipasti, zeppole are simply pieces of yeasted salty dough that are fried, which creates light, crispy puffs. Delicious with a cold beer!

Neapolitan pizza is really in a class all of its own, thanks to its long history and high standards. There is a reason pizza has become so popular around the world, but trying the original version in Naples itself is a must-do whenever you visit!

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